The subject of nuts for a cookbook always evokes questions. How did you get interested in that? Why nuts and seeds? How did you chose them? And the most commonly asked one, what about nut allergies, and the people with them?
When we began our research for the book we addressed this question. We spoke to experts , scoured the literature for information. And our decision to not address allergies in any way came clear.
Nut allergies are serious and the lives of individuals with these allergies could be threatened by making any recipe in our book. There are no substitutions for nuts here. Sadly, those with nut allergies need to skip the book all together.
As nuts have ascended to culinary stardom they also have been demonized, sometimes with good reason. Since we have been on the road promoting the book countless people have told us that they would love to have us come and speak, the book is beautiful the say, but they work in a nut free facility. We understand the abundance of caution, respect the nut free facilities, and steer clear.
On this most recent trip to California I checked into my hotel and was greeted at the front desk with a warm chocolate chip cookie nestled in a paper bag. On the front was an emblem, not dissimilar to the bold no smoking signs we are so used to. It stated…”Warning: contains walnuts”. I was happy to find them in my cookie, and I’m relieved that an early warning system keeps those with allergies safe.
Colorful bottles of nut oils lined up on a store shelf make us want to go home and cook. Open the top and the essence of the nut is with you, as if you have cracked open a shell. But cooking with nut oils is not the same as cooking with the nuts and seeds themselves. Here is why:
Nut oils are fragrant delicate liquids that don’t hold up to much heat. We prefer the ones that are labelled cold pressed, because they have been created with care. When heat is added to the oil production process it denigrates the inherent flavors a tiny bit. Cold pressing extracts just the fats without heat harming the oil, and it’s name ” cold pressed” is as descriptive as can be. When people first gathered nuts and seeds to eat they soon learned that crushing them would release their oils, creating another useful product from the wonders around them. Now nut and seed oils are made in industrial settings with big steel rollers doing the work, no longer crushed between 2 stones as in times long ago. It may be quicker and therefore less expensive to apply heat, but cold pressed oils have flavors that are the essences of the nuts, truer and brighter than the warmed commercial alternatives.
The best use of most nut oils is in finishing a recipe, when no further heat is applied. We drizzle them on top of soups about to be served or whisk them in to salad dressings. A little goes a long way, their flavors are intense. We buy them in the smallest possible quantities because their shelf lives are limited, and we don’t want to waste a drop by spoilage. Keep them closed, cool and dry, and once opened, inside the refrigerator is the place to store them. We pair the flavor of oil with the same nut when we can. The oil elevates the nut’s inherent flavor, underscoring it’s best fragrant qualities.